18th Century Wigs: 300 Years of History and Style

Introduction

The 18th century marked a period of dramatic fashion, with elaborate wigs playing a pivotal role in the sartorial landscape. These carefully crafted headpieces transcended mere adornment, becoming symbols of social status, wealth, and personal identity.

A History of Wigs in the 18th Century

The origins of wigs in the 18th century can be traced back to the reign of Louis XIV in France. In 1660, the "Sun King" began wearing a wig to conceal his prematurely receding hairline, setting a trend that quickly spread throughout the aristocracy.

By the early 18th century, wigs had become an essential accessory for both men and women of fashion. They were made from human hair, horsehair, wool, or a combination of materials. The most expensive and elaborate wigs were often customized to the individual's unique features and preferences.

Types of 18th Century Wigs

A vast array of wig styles emerged during the 18th century, each with its own distinct characteristics:

• Full-bottomed wigs: Worn by men from the 1690s to the 1730s, these wigs featured long, flowing curls that cascaded over the shoulders and down the back.
• Ramillies wigs: Introduced in the early 18th century, Ramillies wigs had a shorter, less voluminous style that was ideal for military campaigns.
• Marlborough wigs: Similar to Ramillies wigs, but with a slightly longer tail, Marlborough wigs were named after the Duke of Marlborough and became popular in the 1720s.
• Bob wigs: Worn by women from the 1720s to the 1790s, bob wigs were characterized by a short, bobbed style that framed the face.
• Péruques à la grecque: Inspired by ancient Greek sculptures, these wigs featured tight curls and a powdered finish, and were popular in the latter half of the 18th century.

The Social Significance of Wigs

In the 18th century, wigs were more than just fashion statements. They played a vital role in social hierarchy and etiquette:

• Status Symbol: Elaborate wigs were a sign of affluence and high rank. The more expensive and ornate the wig, the higher the wearer's status.
• Social Distinction: Wigs helped to distinguish different social classes. For example, men from the lower classes typically wore short, plain wigs, while men from the upper classes wore long, powdered wigs.
• Professional Identity: Wigs were also used to indicate professional affiliation. Lawyers, doctors, and judges wore distinct wig styles that set them apart from the rest of society.

The Wig-Making Process

The creation of 18th century wigs was a highly skilled craft that involved several complex steps:

1. Collecting hair: Human hair was the primary material used in wig-making. It was collected from a variety of sources, including the heads of executed criminals, the hair of live servants, and even hair imported from China and India.
2. Preparing the hair: The collected hair was cleaned, sorted, and combed to remove impurities and tangles. It was then processed to achieve the desired texture and color.
3. Styling the wig: The prepared hair was attached to a wig cap made of net or linen. Hairdressers used a variety of techniques to create the desired style, from curling to waving to powdering.

The Decline of Wigs

By the end of the 18th century, the popularity of wigs began to decline. The advent of natural hairstyles and the growing influence of the Enlightenment led to a shift in fashion and social norms. Wigs gradually became associated with the old aristocratic order and were eventually abandoned by most people.

Legacy and Influence

Despite their decline in fashion, 18th century wigs left a lasting legacy on the world of hairdressing and style:

• Modern Hairpieces: The techniques developed for creating 18th century wigs laid the foundation for modern hairpieces and wigs.
• Fashion Inspiration: The elaborate and theatrical styles of 18th century wigs continue to inspire designers and stylists today.
• Cultural Heritage: Wigs remain an important part of the cultural heritage of many countries around the world, and are often worn in historical reenactments and costume dramas.

Conclusion

The 18th century wig was a transformative fashion accessory that played a significant role in the social and cultural landscape of its time. Its legacy continues to resonate today, influencing fashion, hairdressing, and the visual arts. From its humble beginnings as a practical solution to hair loss to its status as a symbol of power and style, the 18th century wig remains a fascinating piece of history that continues to captivate and inspire.